Octopus broth tour
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“Porta Capuana is the universal theater, it is the Cosmopolis of our people. Here, there is neither night nor day”19th-century Neapolitan journalist
A district rich in treasures, both marvelous and hidden. Just a few steps from the gate stands the ancient village of Sant’Antonio Abate, known as 'o buvero by the locals, home to a historic market: one of the few areas in Naples to have preserved its urban appearance entirely unchanged since the 1400s.
Next to Porta Capuana is another gem of the district: the church of Santa Caterina a Formiello. A splendid and rare example of Neapolitan Renaissance architecture, it houses paintings and sculptures from the Baroque school. Just a few meters away, the city’s ancient wool factory can be found. There are also historic workshops, such as those of the framers: a marvelous example of Neapolitan craftsmanship that continues to renew its tradition.
Not far away is the church of San Giovanni a Carbonara, a unique example of 14th-century architecture. Two churches, stacked on different levels, that house incredible 16th-century sculptures.
Walking through these streets means getting a close-up view of the habits and daily life of the most authentic Naples: like that of the old fishermen who held their market here at the beginning of the 20th century. It is no coincidence that even today one can taste one of the oldest – and most authentically popular – dishes of the entire Neapolitan cuisine: 'o broro 'e purpo. A steaming cup of octopus broth from one of the local fishmongers: a whole octopus cooked, as tradition dictates, in its own broth. Served with its ranfetelle (tentacles) and generously peppered.