Princeps gentis langobardorum. Thus Arechi II proclaimed himself in 774. He was, in fact, the last point of reference for the Lombard people in Italy. When Charlemagne reigned in Europe, Arechi II made Salerno a great capital and gave it the honors that no one else would have given it.
Ph. Flaviana Frascogna - Trentaremi
Today you can imagine that glorious era with a walk through the narrow streets of the historic center up to the hill where the Castle of Arechi stands. It is an excursion halfway between urban trekking and hill walking. With Marco, a guide who knows the area well, I go to discover what remains of the Longobardia Minor. The first part of the tour is concentrated between the two thousand-year-old walls that start from the castle to the old city. It is an imposing fortification inside which the mammoth palace of Arechi was built, hidden today among streets and buildings built by various rulers over the centuries.
The interior of San Pietro a Corte | Ph. Flaviana Frascogna - Trentaremi
Marco shows me the only traces of what remains of the splendid royal palace: the arches supported by columns and capitals on Via della Dogana Vecchia and above all the complex of San Pietro a Corte. Erected on pre-existing Roman structures and raised by Arechi II to the rank of Palatine Chapel, the site is still the only archaeological evidence of palatial architecture from the Lombard era.
Trekking in the pine forest that leads to the castle | Ph. Flaviana Frascogna - Trentaremi
We walk towards Sant’Eremita, a district that climbs gently up to the top of the ancient nucleus. The climb gives way to the steps that run along the ancient eastern walls, partially covered by creepers and caper plants that fall like bunches. Suddenly we are on the highway, which cuts the city cleanly. With a little attention we go through it and go through a gate. «We are on the slopes of Mount Bonadies – Marco explains – We have to climb it to get to the castle».
From the left: Monte San Liberatore, Monte Saragnano and Arechi castle | Ph. Flaviana Frascogna - Trentaremi
The path develops in a series of curves within a pine forest: a green lung visible from every corner of Salerno. We are surrounded by myrtle and rosemary plants, yet the center is really within walking distance! The ascent is pleasant and slow because I stop at every curve to enjoy the landscape. «It will be even better soon», the guide says. When you reach the top, a dream panorama opens: our eyes immediately fall on the tangle of alleys and houses that we have just climbed. On the left we see the Irno Valley and further away Punta Licosa, while on the right we see the rocks of the “Two Brothers” which indicate the beginning of the Amalfi Coast and then we move our gaze to Monte San Liberatore, Monte Avvocata and the famous Bastille. From the terrace of the manor, the view is even wider and only from here I really understand why Arechi chose Salerno as his residence.
A mural in Fornelle district | Ph. Flaviana Frascogna - Trentaremi
We go down along the pine forest and take a road that touches the Garden of Minerva, the first botanical garden in Europe. Then we enter Fornelle, a redeveloped district where murals and street art works modernize one of the most ancient areas of Salerno. A district that dates back to the bright age of the Lombards.