The enchanted fjord

Il fiordo incantato

When you take the state road of the Amalfi Coast, you cross an "invisible" country, cut in two by the road. Only the welcome signs delimit the space from Praiano to Conca dei Marini. On one side there are the houses scattered along the ridge climbing from the sea on the Lattari Mountains. On the other there is a marina 30 meters below the road.

A picturesque bridge fluctuates between the two ends of the highway, overlooking an enchanting inlet, in the middle of a valley that breaks the crest of the Coast. It is the Fiordo di Furore, one of the most evocative natural attractions in Italy. A massive split of the rocky coast that creeps inwards creating a scenario that recalls Scandinavian landscapes. But here the colors are more saturated and the wind carries the fragrances of the Mediterranean vegetation.

The inlet was excavated by the incessant work of the Schiato, a stream that glides from the Agerola plateau until it plunges into the sea. A remarkable work that led to the formation of a natural harbor, unassailable during Saracen raids. It is, in fact, an outstanding and inaccessible territory. And yet, as the vegetation with difficulty grabs on to the cracks in the rocky walls, so the work of man has miraculously adapted to the harshness of the place and its impervious nature. The presence of a mill and a paper factory shows the flourishing activity that once took place inside the fjord.

The fjord hides a careful little beach, nestled in the dizzying Amalfi rock wall. It is a space of just 25 meters made of white stones and caressed by a crystalline sea. Access to the beach is via a steep staircase that starts from the bridge. Going down, the attention falls on a cluster of fishermen's houses which is the village of the "monazzeni" (tool depots). Among these is Villa della Storta, a house bought in 1947 by actress Anna Magnani, who chose it as an alcove for her stormy love story with director Roberto Rossellini. Today it is a permanent museum dedicated to the diva. In summer the water edge is stormed by bathers.

The spirit of the sea, beating castanets, for Greek and Saracen loves within rescue gardens. The River, weeping with a cliff, will tell of the rose and the mint, of the guardian nettle under the olive tree and the carob tree.
Giuseppe Antonello Leone

Here is held every year the Marmeeting, an international dive competition at the maximum height of 28 meters from the sea. In other seasons the beach is a page ripped from a storybook. An half moon plunged into the sea protected by the granitic ridge, against which the waves shatter furiously. A daily scene from which the ancient name “Terra Furoris” originates, today Furore.

According to others, instead, it was the Devil himself who baptized her! It is said that the Demon came to Furore, but his was a short stay because the people drove him away badly. Then, the Lord of darkness decided to avenge by leaving his “souvenir” at the exit of the town. Accidentally, however, he cleaned himself with the most aggressive of nettles that caused burning and irrepressible itches. «Furore feroce! Mal’acqua, mala gente, pure ll’evere è malamente! (Fierce Furore! Bad water, bad people, even the grass is bad!)», the Devil would have screamed, leaving an indelible mark on the rock with his goat hoof. Not even the Demon could get his hands on such beauty.

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