Issue
10

Hymn to Sardinia

Hymn to Sardinia Hymn to Sardinia

A sea cave whose contours are an authentic hymn to the Sardinian island. If Homer had heard of it, he would have made it one of Ulysses' stops. Here, however, the myth was not created by the exploits of the sailors, but by the efforts of the miners.

We are in Masua, in the south-west of Sardinia, a favorite destination for those who want to spend a holiday away from mass tourism. A place with a wild charm that only a few generations ago was a mining area, where the salt mixed with the blood and sweat of lead miners, unfortunately trapped in a hellish paradise. Today the abandoned mines tell the story of the place like the ruins of a temple.

The inlet is a natural museum, where you can visit many jagged monuments a short distance from each other. A pleasure for kayakers and sup lovers, who glide gently on the waves between caves and stacks.

In the morning the Pan di Zucchero (the name of the big rock in Masua bay) is reflected on the blue waters, tinging them with the white of its limestone rock. A few paddles, under the cliff of Punta de is Cicalas, float the rocks of S’Agusteri and del Morto. Further on is Porto Flavia, a former mining port that stands out like a fortress in the rock overlooking the sea. At its feet the Grotta del Soffione puffs. It’s so called because of the large splashes of the waves.

In this eden nestled between the abyss and the surface, the Blue Grotto is shyly hidden. More than a cave, actually, it is a tunnel dug into the coast with an entrance and exit. Entering slowly you find yourself in an unreal environment. The light reflected on the white limestone penetrates the transparency of the water, creating a chromatic kaleidoscope ranging from cobalt blue to bright blue. Little fishes look like polka dots on the iridescent blue of the water.

The silence is intense, the only sounds being your breath and the paddle on the sea. It feels like being in a sanctuary: every drop of water has its sacredness, every inch of rock has a mystical meaning. Diving into this clear and dark pool is like a purification ritual for the body and mind. The moisture, however, begins to stick to the skin and so it is better to emerge from the other hole.

Here's the magic! Among the rocks of the “exit door” the outline of a piece of Sardinia appears, which, reflecting in the water, creates a complete image of it. This is why many call it Grotta Sardegna. It is not a trick. Nature has drawn the portrait of the island as a heart carved by lovers on a tree. Ah, if Homer had known…